Archive for the ‘World Textiles’ Category

Rubia: Mending Afghanistan One Stitch at a Time

Thursday, November 19th, 2009

Rubia, an organization that has 501 (c) 3 status as a non-profit, is dedicated to increasing the literacy of the women of Afghanistan. They raise funds for education mainly through the sale of embroidered goods. A few years ago, we had the opportunity to write an article for The Quilter magazine, based on a meeting with Hafiza Malikbaba and Rachel Lehr, (one of the American founders of Rubia, a fluent linguist who knows all of the Afghan dialects).

small embroidered bag

Small bag or embroidered purse made by a member of the Rubia organization in Afghanistan. Photo taken at Rachel Lehr’s home.

Today, I received notice that Rubia is offering their annual calendar, priced at only $10. each ppd. This year, it features the photographs of Afghan children, taken by Rachel and others. The Internet site for Rubia is selling some very sweet-looking, lavender-filled, 5″ embroidered hearts made of either silk, wool, rayon, and cotton, in other words, whatever fibers were available to the women when making these objects.

Please take a minute to visit the Rubia site: http://www.rubiahandwork.org/special_sale.html

To read more about Afghanistan and Hafiza, please read our online file: http://www.quiltersmuse.com/afghanistan_embroideries.htm

This announcement is brought to you as a courtesy of Quilter’s Muse Publications

Hmong “Happy Fisherman” Pants

Monday, November 16th, 2009

Currently, two Hmong “Happy Fisherman” Pants are offered on eBay by “zootube”

Hmong fisherman pants, example 1

This is auction #130344035302 Hmong fisherman pants

Hmong fisherman pants - example 2

This is auction #130340681357 Hmong fisherman pants example 2

Zach Fauth has been traveling in Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Thailand for 10 years now, collecting and vending textiles. These two pairs of "Happy Fisherman" pants are completely handmade and hand loomed from cotton/hemp.

They feature both piecework and patchwork designs. One of the designs is "Elephant's Foot," rendered in cross-stitch. I have read that the colorful patchwork design, repeated on these objects, can represent the "altar" that is present in every Hmong home in southeast Asia.

For more information about the Hmong and their traditional needlework, please visit: Hmong Textile Art: The Tie That Binds A Culture by Patricia L. Cummings.

Speaking of Molas – Here’s a Special One

Saturday, November 7th, 2009

Barbara Campbell, a quilt designer and friend who lives in New Jersey, found a mola to purchase at a garage sale a few years ago. Like one of the molas in my collection, it is framed. This one is double-framed under glass and its new owner states that “it appears to float on the kitchen wall.” Framing is certainly one way to help preserve textiles, and framing under glass is the most desirable situation, if a textile is to hang in a kitchen where, unseen grease and smoke from cooking can do long-term damage.

owl mola

Keep in mind that molas are always made in pairs, as nearly duplicates, as is possible to make, by the Kuna tribal women (and men) who produce them. Often, we see molas for sale that have uneven, or ragged edges. That is due to the fact that they have already “lived a life” as part of a now disassembled blouse (one mola panel on the lower front, and one on the lower back of the blouse). Often, flimsy, see-through fabrics of man-made fibers are used for the upper part of the blouse, as well as the sleeves.

The Kuna Indians have found it profitable to disassemble old and unwanted blouses and tourists do no seem to mind the fact that they are purchasing used goods. Of course, that is not always the situation.

Nonetheless, the artistry of the mola is desirable in terms of art and symbolism. Often, the Spanish words that appear on molas are misspelled because Spanish is NOT the native language of this native Indian tribe.

I have mentioned recently the links to files on my website, for more information. Rather than hunt them down again, I invite you to use the site navigation bar on our website, or else, scroll back to previous blogs about molas that contain the links.

Thank you, Barbara, for sharing yet another mola example with us. Molas are like Halloween candy corn. You can’t have just one. I can bet that you will catch the mola “bug,” Barbara, and before long, you will collect others!

You can visit Barbara’s two online sites: a website, “Love in Stitches,” and a blog, “Defining the Inner Muse.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Kuna Indians/Mola Makers Seen In Their Own Habitat: Archipelagos Off the Coast of Panama

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

This morning, I visited YouTube and just realized that there are quite a few videos of collected molas as well as movies of those who make them, on the archipelago sites off the coast of Panama. I enjoyed watching native Kuna Indian women, with their traditional nose rings and bare feet, making molas and wearing them. Molas are a traditional part of their everyday wear. It is only when tourists began visiting these people, in their remote corner of the universe, that a pattern of trading was established.

I have written extensively about the Kuna Indians and have enjoyed seeing an exhibit at the University of Connecticut, and many years later, one at Dartmouth College. We produced several articles for print publications. Currently, there are two related files on our website: Quilter’s Muse Publications: “A History of Molas,” “Molas and their Makers,” and others. Just key in the word “mola” into the site search feature on the front page of our website and you will be able to access all the articles in which molas are mentioned.”

back of mola blouse

This photo shows the back of a former mola (blouse). The geometric patterns of this piece are repeating designs, as you can see. It is amazing to see the extent of precision that mola-makers bring to their work.

My favorite musical video on YouTube, on this topic of the Kuna Indians, is called “Memorias de Kuna Yala.” Various villages are featured, as well as celebrations. One is called the “Conmemoracion de Revolcion Tule.” (I cannot put in the appropriate accents for Spanish, in this particular blog interface).

In the bloody Tule Rebellion of 1925, all whites were killed or expelled from Kuna territory. It is interesting to note that the Kuna flag consists of three color bands: a solid yellow fabric with a black swastika flanked by two solid red colors. Clearly, their swastika is not linked to Hitler’s Germany. For more information about the history of the swastika symbol, please visit our website file on that topic.

The names of other YouTube videos that I viewed are:

1) Mola Art from the Republic of Panama
2) Mola Arts and Crafts of Panama
3) Kuna Yala montage
4) Mola Art from Panama
5) The Spirit of the Mola
6) San Blas Indians
7) Kuna Dance

One website that features molas is: www.molaartandcraft.com

I hope that you enjoy this information as much as I did!

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Egyptian Wall Hanging

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Egyptian wall hanging

Today, a reader sent us this image of an Egyptian wall hanging. The person has owned this for fifty years and is now wondering how old it might be, and seeks any other information about it.

If anyone here is an Egyptologist and would like to comment, please write either a direct comment to this e-mail, or write to me privately at: pat@quiltersmuse.com and I’ll pass along the message.

We always enjoy seeing other people’s textiles and certainly answer any questions, as we can.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Textile Talks To Be Featured at the “Big E”

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Press Release from Eastern States Exposition

“Woolgathering Through the Millennia” – 3:00 p.m. Friday, Sept. 25, 2009

Elizabeth Wayland Barber – CA

Spinning and weaving are older than metalworking or even pottery, but it took millennia to develop usable woolly sheep. In this colorfully illustrated talk, Dr Elizabeth Barber traces the early history of the fiber crafts, showing how the place of sheep, wool, and patterned woolen textiles changed repeatedly as innovations in technology and changes in the sheep themselves took place.

Dr. Elizabeth Barber is the author of many popular books on the history of textiles, including Women’s Work: the First 20,000 Years.

“Cotswolds Through the Ages” – 3:00 p.m. Sunday, Sept. 27, 2009

Rob Harvey Long, UK

Home of The Big E From the start of my career I had a great interest in Oriental Carpets and rugs. I studied them in great detail. I was keen to know everything there was to know about them and particularly the wool used, and my interest in wool really stems from my early study of these beautiful hand made items.

Since joining The Cotswold Sheep Society, and reading about the fleeces being called “The Golden Fleece,” I have been wondering how this came about. My search has led me to some fascinating discoveries which I will be sharing with you.

I will also be talking about the Medieval wool trade in The Cotswolds and the Italian connection, and finally discussing the Cotswold Sheep Society in the 21st century and what the future may hold for us.

We look forward to seeing you!

The Big E runs Sept. 18 – Oct. 4, 2009. Both of the talks described above will be presented in the Moses Auditorium.

This public announcement is brought to you by Quilter’s Muse Publications.

Sandra LeBeau Discusses Manchester Mills at Campton, NH Historical Society

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

Sandra LeBeau, Ph.D. presented the topic, “The Mills of Manchester, NH and Manchester, England,” at a meeting on September 21, 2009, hosted by the Campton Historical Society, Campton, NH, in conjunction with the New Hampshire Humanities Council. The speaker, self-described as a “labor historian,” revealed similarities about old mills in both cities called “Manchester.” She came to know much about those particular mills, as a result of living near them.

Mill Girl Statue, Millyard Museum

Mill Girl Statue in Manchester, NH at the site of the former Amoskeag Mills. With the “mill girls,” this operation would not have prospered. photo by James Cummings

Her talk compares the pre-Industrial era to the Age of Industrialization that was based on the model set forth by England. She briefly alluded to the name “Slater.” To further clarify her reference, Samuel Slater is called “The Father of the Industrial Revolution.” He left England for America, with the plans for making textile machinery, held only in his memory bank. If written plans were found on his person, he could have been tried for industrial espionage, imprisoned or worse.

Slater set up a mill in Pawtucket, Rhode Island to spin cotton. As spinning a fiber is just one of the preliminary steps to making cloth, his mill led to the creation of weaving mills in Massachusetts. The Slater Mill Museum and Gift Shop are wonderful to visit.

There is so much information related to Mill History, I am absolutely certain that it is impossible to include all of the details in one talk, or one article, or even one book. The speaker did a great job of staying on topic. In passing, she mentioned other mills such as those of Lowell, MA and Harrisville, NH.

Harrisville Canal photo by James Cummings

Canal at the Harrisville Mill complex, Harrisville, NH, where woolen textiles were manufactures. photo by James Cummings

Even though I have read a lot about the mills of New England, and have visited many of them, have seen their videos and exhibits, and have learned about their workers, the joy for me last night was in hearing another historian speak about a familiar subject. The audience, including me, added a lot of comments, observations, and questions, and everyone seemed very enthusiastic about this presentation.

Of burning interest are the factors that led to the demise of the New England mills, actually a combination of factors. Many thanks to Sandra LeBeau. I am sure that this talk only whetted folks’ interest to learn more or brought the subject to mind for others.

For additional online reading, there are files on our website about the mills in Lowell and Pawtucket, and the Amoskeag, Cocheco, and Harrisville Mills of New Hampshire. Just go to the Index page, scroll down to the Site Navigation Information, and key in one of those words, after placing your cursor in the search box.

Patricia Cummings

Intriguing Photos of Egyptian Textiles Sent by Reader

Monday, September 21st, 2009

After reading my online file about Egyptian appliqué, a woman named “Margot” sent me 10 photos of her Egyptian textile collection, yesterday. She calls herself “an inadvertent collector of Egyptian appliqué” and found her pieces to collect, in Maine and online beginning in the 1980s.

Although she apologized for the “amateurish” look of her photos, I was able to work with them a bit, with a photo editing program, and I believe you will enjoy seeing the images. There is only one that is cropped off at the end, due to a streak of light. They are wonderful!

A lot of symbolic imagery appears in the following designs. At the end of this photo essay, I will list some books in my personal collection that are helpful in identifying the meaning of the symbols. Identification of the symbols would be a good project for home-schooled children and others who are interested in learning more about Egyptian art, always a fascinating subject!

long Egyptian textile

archer

donkey kneeling

man on horseback carrying flag

another panel

beige colors

orange camel

8th piece

9th piece

final piece

In addition, Dover Publications sells a CD-ROM & Book called Egyptian Designs for MacIntosh and Windows. No affiliation.

I hope you have enjoyed this file. Many thanks to Margot for sharing her collection with us.

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Mi Amiga de La Argentina Cuida El Arte de “Quilting”

Saturday, September 12th, 2009

Gloria Tanquilevich loves crafting and quilts. I have known her for some time now, having met her, early on, in a quilting chat room. She probably owns every possible download for paper piecing that has been available online for the last 10 years, as that method has enchanted her. She lives in Argentina and is a teacher, by trade and by temperament. Recently, she converted her garage into a usable sewing area to accommodate the women who want to learn quilting from her, after seeing her beautiful quilts and pillows. She is energetic, creative, and I’m happy to say, my friend.

Gloria a few years ago

Gloria, a few years ago

Within the last few months, she has set up a blog, “Quilting in Argentina.” In two recent entries, “Rescate Histórico I” and “Rescate Histórico II,” she shows photos of “old” patchwork, done by Ida Justina Obhola, a woman with German roots, who has enjoyed piecing small rectangular quilts and nine-patch pillows and seat cushions, using scraps from dresses, blouses, and other textiles. Gloria interviewed Ida with her works that seem like antiques in a country with no strong tradition of patchwork or quilting as we think of it.

To buy fabric, Gloria enjoys trekking to Buenos Aires and making a day of shopping at the one quilt shop there. In the past, she has ordered from Keepsake Quilting but mail order is cumbersome for financial considerations of money exchange.

From viewing Gloria’s blog, it is clear to see that she has eager students. I love watching people actualize their potential and follow their dreams. Gloria epitomizes a person who starts with ideas and brings them to fruition, if only by her contagious enthusiasm. Buena suerte, mi amiga, y que Dios te bendiga. (Good luck, my friend, and may God bless you).

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications

Souvenirs from Italy: World War II Comes Home

Sunday, August 23rd, 2009

Imagine yourself in 1944. Your loved one is in Italy, in the military, called to duty in World War II. You know that he is thinking of you, while you are worrying about him. How can he express his love for you at a time when there is no Internet, and few other means of available and affordable communication, except for mail grams? Why, he sends you textile “souvenirs.” In this brief article, we will look at four such items bestowed upon Louise Traunstein by (the late) Russ Traunstein, who served in the Air Force.

1944 Pillow Souvenir from Italy

The first piece is a pillow cover, complete with a lavender back with part of the right hand side left open so that stuffing could be slipped in. The “writing” and most of the motif work is rendered in rayon thread and a continuous, machine-made chain stitch. We see two facing (abstract) birds in the center, and a star composed of simulated filling knots and an orange circular center filled with orange knots. Light blue rayon threads look like today’s meander quilting. (There is nothing new under the sun).

The writing at the top says in English, “Souvenir … Italy,” while “1944″ appears, almost illegibly, at the bottom. Within the center is a number, perhaps “15.” If anyone knows the significance of that number, I would love to know!

Lace that appears to have been made by machine and which has a sheen to it, as if it, too, is rayon, features a simulated hemstitch effect, closest to the pillow top. The background may be cotton velveteen. It has a low nap and is soft to the touch.

Italian hankies - WWII

Two Italian souvenir, ochre color, hankies in rayon, with chain stitching in variegated, rayon thread, and differing lace edge treatments

These two small hankies, (design area approximately 4″ square) have writing that I cannot discern. Rayon not a practical fiber for a hankie because the fibers are not absorbent. Clearly, these were made only to be “souvenirs.”

Souvenir Italia - orange flowers

This bright pillow cover is amazingly cheerful with its bright orange flowers, again rendered in chain stitch; and their yellow “stems.” The words “Souvenir” and “Italia” are worked with variegated, rayon, chain stitch, by machine. The wide lace is romantic, dreamy, and enchanting … and also made by machine. On the back, the lace extends beyond the seam, sewn with white thread, in machine stitches, about 1/4″ to jet over the green acrylic background.

This is a very pretty piece, as are the others. Sixty-five years after it was acquired, it is showing a few stains, perhaps from storage in a wooden drawer, without a barrier of protection from wood acids.

Aluminum foil could be used to prevent damage of this kind.

Nonetheless, these pieces are remembrances of a time of uncertainty. They represent a period of wistful longing for home and hearth, as well as the love felt by military men for those left at home, those they knew were wishing and praying for their safe return.

I would like to thank my friend, Louise Traunstein, for sharing these pieces with us. The good news is that Russ came home from the war, and they lived many years together as man and wife, until his death in 1997. A poet, he published a volume of his poems that is currently out of print.

Mrs. Traunstein is heavily involved with writing the newsletter for the Groton Historical Society and has made significant historical contributions to her “adopted” town. A former teacher for more than 30 years, she is always willing to share information! Thanks, Louise!

All photographs by James Cummings

Letter to the Editor:

Hi Pat,

The photos of the souvenirs came out lovely and yes they were stored in wooden drawers. Amazing what you don’t know about environmental effects on materials, if not an expert.

The 15 represents the 15th Air Force. I don’t know what this means in regards to the total Air Force.

He served in the 99th Bomb Group … the 346th Bombardment Squadron.

Jim might know how the 15th fits into the total. I believe the 15th started its journey in Africa and then worked its way up toward Germany.

Russ was based in Foggia and in Florence, Italy. Served about a year and a few months longer.

Thanks for the acknowledgment.

Take care,

Louise

Patricia Cummings
Quilter’s Muse Publications – where there are many more articles about “Sweetheart” and “Mother” pillows, from World War II