Japanese Design Themes in Quilts

Japanese Design Themes

by Patricia L. Cummings

The traditions and culture of Japan are a treasure trove for design possibilities. The “Japanese Lore and Legends” quilt celebrates a few of the many legends and symbols of the “floating world.” In an attempt to graphically interpret certain concepts about Japanese life, the logical place to start seemed to be with an asymmetrically-pieced center circle.

Circles Popular in Japan

Circles, as a design element, have always been popular in Japan. To the eastern mind they represent the continuity of life, if not eternity. Circular family crests of heraldry were worn on clothing in Japan for centuries. Within the crest, a specific motif would be stitched and each family name had its own designated crest design.

Lore of Japan quilt

Hexagons Symbolic

The shape of a circle, then, was a must to use when designing the quilt shown here. Other shapes have also been executed purposefully and certain geometric configurations have meanings that transcend the obvious. Hexagon patterns have been used, in both the fabric within the circle, and as elongated shapes in an appliquéd motif in the border perimeter area.

To the Japanese, hexagons represent the divisions of a sea tortoise’s shell. These creatures which return yearly to Japan are an integral symbol of Japan. According to legend, Japan itself sits on the back of a gigantic sea turtle. Like the beloved crane, tortoises represent long life, as they were both thought to live 1,000 years. The flying crane, embroidered with perle coton, is a lovely motif design borrowed from a book called Sashiko and Beyond.

Fan

Outline drawing of a Japanese fan from Emma's Quilt

Chrysanthemums

The Chrysanthemum, considered to be the sacred flower of Japan, is presented as an overstitched motif on a piece of cream color silk, in the center of the circle. Variegated perle coton, which was dyed in gradated values of violet, was couched on, to make the flower look more three dimensional. Legend says that if a person drinks the water in which Chrysanthemum petals have floated, he/she will have eternal life. Family crests of this flower have always been reserved for exclusive use of the royal family.

Buttons and brass charms which help tell the story of Japan’s traditions were added to the quilt. The brass charm of a long-necked bird, suggesting the image of a crane, was added as an embellishment. Cranes arrive in Japan each year to spend the winter, returning to their home in Siberia in the spring. They are a much revered symbol of fertility and good luck and the birds are welcomed back with great joy each year.

Japanese block designed by Patricia Cummings

Butterflies, a long time Japanese image which represents the human soul, has been added as a surface embellishment as an appliquéd motif on one of the patches which resembles bamboo leaves. Butterfly references often appear in haiku poetry, and are celebrated as print images on the surface of many textiles, such as yukata cloth.

Not surprisingly, fish are a motif often used in Japanese design. Fish are an integral part of the economy and diet of this island community. In my quilt, I have used a brass charm to depict a carp. Koi, which are like large goldfish, are often depicted in Japanese style quilts. Carp or Koi, as they are called in Japan, are an extremely fierce and fearless fish. For this reason, they have come to be an important symbol. On Boy’s Day, celebrated on May 5 each year, a carp windsock is flown outside the home, one for each boy in the house, in the hope that the male children in the home will be strong and successful.

Embellishments

Other embellishments on the quilt include jewels, a Shisha mirror, and a brass Sun with emanating rays. Together, these symbolize the legend of a sun goddess who went into her cave and refused to come out. Tired of sunless days, the villagers went to the cave opening where they shone mirrors and jewels to entice her to reappear. They succeeded in their efforts and once again, the sun was out and the rice fields thrived.

Noshi

Another very important symbol within the circle is a bunch of gathered and tacked silk ribbons which represent the traditional noshi. The noshi is a ceremonial gift which is traditionally given on New Year’s Day. Originally the gift was an abalone fish, wrapped in bright paper resembling colorful ribbons, and tied. It was meant to convey the wish of good luck in the coming year, and the noshi is often seen as a colorful ribbon style design on many printed Japanese textiles, now being sold in the United States.

A piece of antique lace that is suggestive of the shape of a kimono is appliquéd to the upper part of the center circle. Kimono (singular and plural are the same word) are a traditional silk garment. Every man and woman are expected to own at least one good ceremonial kimono, some of which cost in excess of (US) $50,000.

Indigo miniature quilt with Sashiko, designed by Patricia Cummings

Sashiko

Sashiko stitching, which we regard as mostly decorative today, actually began as a way to repair and to conserve kimono. Sashiko has been called a “hybrid” type of stitching which is somewhere between embroidery and quilting. It is a running stitch which is most often done using white or indigo cotton thread. A variegated Sashiko thread is currently being produced in Japan, an innovative change to traditional color use.

The two Sashiko designs appear in the perimeter area of the circle. One of these is the traditional kasumi cloud formations. The other is an interlocking pattern called “Linking Plover.” This abstract design represents a plover which is a type of seabird common in Japan. Here again, the design element is honoring something that occurs in the natural world.

Other motifs outside the circle include: a paper-pieced fan, the Japanese national flag; a maple leaf, stylistically rendered, and an appliquéd shape representing a pine tree and set within a quilted diamond. Pine trees are always depicted in this same traditional manner, especially in Japanese art work. The pine, the plum, and the bamboo, used together as a motif are referred to as the “three companions of the deep cold.” Those three trees are very hearty and survive the cold winters well.

The diamond shape is often seen in Japanese quilts. Hexagons are quite popular, as noted, and on this particular quilt, a unit of elongated hexagons was assembled and appliquéd. Continuing upward from that unit, we see a patch containing musical notes to illustrate and represent the importance of music in Japan. The plain white piece of fabric has writing that spells out “Japan” twice, once in English and again, using a Kanji symbol (Japanese character).

Two brass fans of different classic shapes are also used as embellishments, as well as the white fish button, a symbol of Christianity, a religion present in Japan since the Muromachi period (1333-1568) with the arrival of Portuguese traders who landed with missionaries and guns.

Needlework Reflects Shinto Beliefs

The needlework of Japan reflects the fact that the basic belief system of the country is Shintoism. Shintos do not recognize a central deity, but rather believe that all things, whether animate or inanimate, possess a spirit. In addition, Shintos honor all of nature. It is not surprising that collectively, the Japanese people have a deep respect for flowers, birds, fish, trees, parks, and water. These design themes can be seen in their stitched goods as well as in their art work.

Of note to us, as needleworkers, is the fact that once a year, Japanese women gather at Shinto shrines to thank their worn out needles for their year of service and then they ceremoniously bury them in tofu. This is called the Hari-Kuyo ceremony.

Beautiful Silk Textiles

The Japanese have a long history of creating and treasuring beautiful textiles, especially silk ones, due to the availability of silk in that country. Currently, American cotton fabrics are a valued and often hard-to-find item in Japan. In my quilt, both silks and cottons have been used, including some Momen House prints, printed in Japan. Comparing the colors to the brighter American ones, one would have to describe them as having more grayed tones.

This quilt was the outgrowth of the need to visually illustrate a talk that I gave to a needlework group, one lecture in a series of five that I presented about the history of Japan, its culture, and its people, especially in regards to needlework issues. As the world is becoming smaller and smaller, due in part to internet connections, it is helpful to try to understand the work and traditions of other cultures. Japanese quilters often look to traditional American quilt patterns for inspiration, but quilting is becoming a way for those quilters to celebrate their own heritage.

Quilt Exhibit Partners with Sister Guild in Japan

An especially delightful quilt show was one that we attended in 1996 in Fairhaven, Massachusetts. This show was an invitational co-exhibit, presented in conjunction with a sister guild from Japan which sent over many quilts. As confidence in the use of quilting techniques grows, Japanese quilters are making more one-of-a-kind quilts which express their own unique and creative energies.

While it would be impossible to convey the richness of the Japanese textile tradition in one short article, I hope that you have gained more insight by having read my words that describe my attempt to visually represent symbols important to the understanding of Japan and its people.

Core Meanings Hidden in Shapes

All of the various shapes included in the little quilt above work in tandem to share a deeper core meaning than what is initially observed in the surface designs. The circles, hexagons, diamonds, rectangle, pine tree image, Sashiko quilting, embroidery, and a crazy quilt style center provided variety in construction techniques and were fun to include.

May the information provided here be useful to you, not to copy what I have done, but to encourage you to further investigate the traditions of Japan on your own, and to design a quilt relevant to Japanese design aesthetics. Good luck, and remember….if you create something of which you are really proud, please send me a picture!

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